I took my first trip to Iceland about 4 months ago and fell in love. The scenery, the remoteness, the atmosphere, it’s palpable and ever present. I had to go back. Had to share it. I had to see it in the opposite season. We’re off for a trip through Snaefelness Peninsula in winter!!
Getting There
I’ve been living in the UK for about 6 months now. I even dragged my dog and my partner over from Australia. The dog arrived about 4 months ago but Erin has only been here for 6 weeks. Reflecting on the experience I had last time I was in Iceland, I knew I had to share it so I booked us in for a short 6 day trip to discover the Snaefelness peninsula.
Just like my last trip which you can read about HERE, We caught a late flight out of London. After a brief delay we arrived in Iceland at the chipper time of 2am
Car Hire
There is a plethora of rental cars available. All have websites that can be easily googled. I would note that although not necessary, a four wheel drive car is advised in winter.
Key things to know about driving Snaefelness Peninsula in winter
Weather – Icelandic winter weather is unforgiving. Make sure you check the forecast on weather.is at least 4 times a day.
Roads – roads.is is the best place to find out if roads are open. It’s updated very regularly.
Fuel stations – Fuel stations can be pretty far between each other once you get out of Reykavik. Always make sure you have enough and google where the next fuel is on a long journey.
Food – Most fuel stations will sell a hot meal and all towns have some sort of a grocery store.
Itinerary
We flew in on the last flight from London, arriving in Iceland around midnight. Hired a car stayed in the viking lodge for a very cheap stay.
Day 1
Although this itinerary is about the Snaefeljness Peninsula in winter, we spent half a day exploring the Reykjanes peninsular. If you’re not interested in that, skip straight to day 2.
Fagradalsfjall Volcano
45 mins south of Reykavik lies the Fagradalsfjall Volcano volcano. A still active volcano. This is the volcano that shut down half of europe’s flgihts 10 years ago. There isn’t much lava to see but you will find kilometres of still steaming lava trails. The hike is around 10 kilometres with some reasonable incline on the way there.
Since writing this the Litli-Hrútur volcano has erupted, if you hurry you’ll see fresh lava!
Blue Lagoon
This is on most of famous attractions around Reykavik. Only 15 minutes from the volcano it’s a great way to relax after your hike. Book in early.
Drive to Snaeflensess
Driving north to Snaefelness Peninsula in winter is pretty easy and well marked. It will take about 3 hours. Make sure to drive to conditions. We used a cabin outside of Grundarfjörður as our base our time there. The cabin we had overlooked Kirkjufell which was an amazing thing to wake up to.
Day 2
Your best way to see Snaeflensess is either clockwise from the south side or anti clockwise from the north side. The following sites are some of the most scenic travelling from North to South in an anti clockwise direction.
Kirkjufell
This is the most photographed mountain in Iceland. It lies right next to Grundarfjörður and is very easy to find. You quite literally drive past it. While most people will see it during summer or spring, winter brings a whole new aspect to it. Make sure to take the 3 minute walk from the carpark to see Kirkjufellsfoss.
Búlandshöfði Lookout
Perched 100 metres above the ocean with 200 degree views and nothing in between you and the Arctic, this lookout provides spectacular views
Gufuskálar Fish Sheds
The Gufuskálar fish sheds are a call back to a time once gone of Iceland. Drying sheds of volcanic stone used by the Icelandic fisherman 500 years ago to dry fish in the shadow of mount Snæfellsjökull.
Saxhóll Crater
Stand on top of a 5000 year old volcanic spout. Only 400 stairs are lie in between you and the summit.
Djúpalónssandur Beach
A black sand enclave encased either side by Volcanic rock. Djúpalónssandur is quite a magical sight. Some days you can skip a stone across it. On our visit waves were 6 metres high.
Budir Church
Ever seen that striking black church perched on a wild peninsula on instagram? Well this is it. Originally built in 1703 out of turf and rocks, Budir church has had various improvements of the years to become another one of Icelands most photographed locations. For the budding photographer, this church alone is worth a trip to Snaefelness Peninsula in winter.
Vatnshellir Cave
Travel through an 8,000 year naturally formed old lava cave. Tour group run hourly tours of the cave, highlighting the total darkness of cave… spooky!
Arnarstapi & Gatklettur
Few places in the world can you see natural stone arches made from the ocean forces. With a pleasant little lookout this spot doesn’t disappoint. The Village of Arnarstapi has a lovely little cafe for some lunch as well.
Driving home in storm
Again, make sure to cehck the weather. We drove home on a setting sun through the mountainous middle region of Snaefelness peninsula in the worst blizzard I’ve ever experienced in my life. It was scary. Luckily the snow patrol conduct non stop
Day 3
With most of the big ticket items done you can either hang around to see a few extra things or head off on your next adventure. Below are a few extra sights and activities
Catch a wave
On of the main goals of our trip was to catch a winter wave. This was very unsuccesful due to the weather as regularly happens in surfing. However, if you want to give it a try give Ingo a bell at Arctic Surfers for all your gear needs and a few pointers on where to look.
Pat an Icelandic Horses
Horses are the most farmed animal in Iceland and they are gorgeous! Stop by the side of the road for a pat with these friendly beasts.
Grundarfoss
Snaefelness in winter provides some amazing frozen cascades and waterfalls. Grundarfoss is one of the larger waterfalls here and is very easily accessible heading out of Snaefelness.
Coffee in Borgarnes
Borgarnes is one of the larger towns of Iceland, placed in the highway north of Reykjavik. With beautiful views across the water to the mountains in the distance, this town is worth a stop.
So What Now?
Well I’ve been to Iceland’s south, west and after this trip we did a short journey to Blondous in the north (where we got stuck inside in a blizzard for 2 days). Looks like the east coast is the only one left!
If you would like to see my other journeys through Iceland click HERE.
