Unknown to many, Mexico has potentially the most accessible high altitude mountaineering in the world. Within a few hours drive from Mexico city, you can stand atop a mountain approaching 6,000m or 20,000 feet. It’s not just one mountain either. The Mexican Volcano Trilogy combines 3 La Malinche (4,461M), Iztaccihuatl (5,230M) and ‘The big one’, Pico de Orizaba (5,636M).
I climbing all three in 6 days using a guiding service. This post will cover everything you need to know about climbing the Mexican volcano trilogy. If you want to do a shorter trip you could also skip either La Malinche or Izta. Although I’d make sure to do at least one of the as you need the acclimatisation.
For more detail guides, check out these links for each of the Mexico volcano trilogy mountians; La Malinche, Izta & Pico de Orizaba
Details
Costs – Around $2,000 USD. Cost breakdown is below.
Distance – 14km, 13km & 6km.
Days required – I did it in 6 whirlwind days but a few extra would make it more casual and allow time for recovery.
Total Incline & Decline – 4,000 metres each way
Highest Point – Pico de Orizaba 5,636M.
Difficulty – 8 out of 10. This is only rated on the difficulty of the hardest climb which for me was Izta.
Guide – To accomplish this in a quick turn around I would recommend a guide. I used 3 summits who I couldn’t recommend higher.
Accomodation – Varies depending on location. La Malinche has huts. Izta is camping. Pico has a shared hut or camping.
Gear Required to Climb the Mexican Volcano Trilogy
Hiking Boots – Merrells or similar – For Malinche & Izta
Mountaineering Boots – Only needed for Pico. Single layer would be best. Double would be overkill. I used Scarpa Mont Blancs.
Thick socks – Wool or bambo.
Base layer bottom – Only ever use Merino Wool. They’re expensive but last and keep you warm without overheating.
Softshell / hiking pants – I used Arcteryx gamma’s
Hard-shell pants – Dependant on weather.
Base layer top – Again, Only use Merino wool.
Fleece / mid layer top – I used TNF Glacier Fleece
Light puffer jacket – I used Decathalon’s MT100 jacket
Hard-shell / windbreaker – I used Arcteryx Beta jacket
Head torch – With spare batteries
2 pairs of gloves – light and heavy/mittens
Crampons – C2’s to go with mountaineering boots. I use Grivel g12’s in New Matic style. They’re the industry best and a very traditional crampon
Hiking poles
Backpack – 40L
Food / snacks
Itinerary for the Mexican Volcano Trilogy
Day 1
- Land in Mexico City with local accommodation
Day 2
- Drive to La Malinche Basecamp Cabins – Approx 2 hours
- Acclimatisation hike and rest.
Day 3
- Set off 3am
- Summit La Malinche 4461M around 7am
- Return to cabins around 12 pm
- Drive to Puebla
Day 4
- Drive to Izta Basecamp – Approx 2 hours
- Relaxation for early wake up
Day 5
- Start summit push around 1am from basecamp
- Summit Izta 5231M around 7am
- Return to Izta basecamp around 12pm
- Drive to Puebla for the night
Day 6
- Drive to Pico basecamp – approx 3 hours
- Acclimatisation hike and early bed
Day 7
- Start summit push around 1am
- Summit Pico De Orizaba 5620M around 7am
- Return to basecamp by 11am.
- Drive back to Puebla.
Costs to climb the Mexican Volcano Trilogy
Cost Breakdown covers everything except flights.
- Guiding services for all three mountains – $1,580 USD (this includes food and accom on mountain)
- Airport Transfers – $275 USD (this includes to mountain locations and also via the Teotihuacan pyramids for sight seeing)
- Accomodation in Puebla – $50 USD per night for a standard hotel. You can go more premium or also a hostel.
- Gear Hire – I had all my own gear but it is VERY cheap to hire gear from 3 summits. Around $20USD for boots and crampons for the entire trip and $5 USD for a sleeping bag.
- Only other major thing will be meals while you’re in Puebla which will be 4-5 nights.
DON’T USE THE MONEY EXCHANGERS IN MEXICO CITY AIRPORT
I got very well ripped off. All you need to do is go to an ATM for the best exchange rate, use your normal bank card and select the option to say you don’t want to use the banks transaction rate . This is just an option with funny wording to say you want to use your home bank, which will provide a better exchange rate. This lesson cost me $160.
Guides Service vs Self Guiding
I used 3 summits to climb the Mexican voclano trilogy. They were excellent. Alvaro was the main contact, Karla handled logistics, Alejandro and Cristian were my guides. They organised everything from drivers to food to replacement gear. Took me up each mountain making sure to stay at my pace. I just had to be at the right place at the right time for pickup.
It’s also is very possible to have your own transport and take yourself to these mountains as many do. You’d really just need a tent and some basic camping gear with you,. In this circumstance you would simply take a few more days to become acquainted with the surrounding. Izta can be broken into 2 days with a camp at the halfway refuge so you only walk during the day. Pico you can follow a group quite easily until the sun comes up. Malinche is a very basic track.
Is the Mexican Volcano Trilogy Dangerous?
If one set off unprepared without the right gear and without a guide to show you the way in the dark, yes it can be very dangerous. walking off a cliff or lost i a glacier kind of dangerous. If you have the right kit and know where you’re going I think it’s comparatively safe for how high the altitude is. In saying that, accidents can happen anywhere. Always be prepared and make sure to push the limit, not break it.
My Experience Climbing the Mexican volcano trilogy
This was a trip 2 years in the making. Originally planned for March 2020 then put on hold due to a certain virus. I managed to keep most of my money paid in credit and reorganise for Feb 2023 (again, thanks to 3 summits for honouring that). The original trip was to leave from Australia and tag it on following a wedding in Cancun. However, since I’ve relocated to London two years later, I made a quick 5 day break from work and jetted off before my credit expired.
Mexican Volcano Trilogy Elevation Charts
La Malinche
La Malinche is generally used as an acclimatisation climb for the Mexican volcano trilogy. However, this is also very accessible, a great day out and a massive achievement for many that haven’t been at altitude before.
3 summits driver picked me up from Mexico city airport and took me to La Malinche cabin via the Teotihuacan pyramids for some sightseeing. Arriving at La Malinche I met my guide for the climb, Alejandro. La Malinche has around 60 cabins, all with 6-8 beds in them, kitchen facilities and a bathroom. The complex is very quiet and relaxing considering the hustle and bustle of Mexico city only 2 hours away. Outside the complex is a shop, restaurant and depending on what day it is, a few street vendors.
We found our cabin and got ready for an acclimatisation hike.
La Malinche – Acclimatising
We set off on brisk pace uphill, which had me out of breath within 200 metres. I was determined to keep up with Alejandro however at about 1 kilometre asked to slowdown the pace. Instantly feeling the lack of oxygen in the thin air and was cautious to control my breathing with slower longer breaths. We hiked through tall pine forests, surrounded by stray dogs, at a moderate 20 ish degrees for half an hour before getting to our turn around point about 2.5 kilometres in.
After turning around the way down was a lot easier, I felt air returning to me, my sweat evaporated and I found the temperature quite cool. We stopped in the small restaurant, dining on taco’s and fajita’s for an early dinner before putting ourselves to bed as the sun set around 7pm.
La Malinche – The Climb
Kicking off with an Alpine start at 3am, I was very surprised by the temperature. The previous days warm 20 degrees celcius was now a very brisk 4ish. We snacked a quick breakfast, I did some stretching and we hit the trail. We set off on the same track we were on yesterday with head torches lighting our path. Yesterday’s 1-2 following stray dogs had amased to 7.
I was fascinated but a little concerned at first as it is very rare to see stray dogs at home in London however Alejandro assured me it’s very normal and they are friendly. It turns out the dogs over time find their own way there however then get fed by the restaurant and looked after by the locals. Alejandro told me that one of the skinnier dog’s who had only recently arrived will be fattened up within the month.
At the 2.5 kilometre mark where we turned around yesterday the terrain turned significantly steeper. I definitely felt the altitude and was concerned for the rest of the climb. This was the hardest section of the whole climb but luckily it only went for about 1 kilometre.
After 4 kilometres and roughly 2 hours, we came to the end of the tree line. The terrain opened up to sandy gravel and tussoky grass while the temperature dropped. We were now around 3,800 metres. The incline was reasonably steep but very manageable. Our passengers, the dogs, were steadily in two and I wondered how high they would actually go?
Summiting La Malinche
The main summit ridgeline started around the 5 kilometre mark. We approached as the sun was starting to rise from behind Mexico’s highest mountain and the goal of my trip, Pico De Orizaba. Pico looked extremely large and daunting from our perch on the side of La Malinche.
Climbing up through the early morning light, across frozen ground with a trail of dogs still at our heels, we met the final summit outcrop. This included some slight scrambling however it is very manageable and quite short.
We topped out on the summit after 3 and a half hours of climbing. The temperature had warmed up significantly and the view was fascinating. La Malinche almost sits in a line between Orizaba and Mexico’s 2nd and 3rd highest mountains, my next goal Izta and the very active volcano Popo. We spent around 2 hours on the summit taking in the views and using the time to acclimatise for the weeks climbing to come. 7 dogs had also bagged the summit as our climbing buddy’s.
The way down was very fast. Our approach track now looked completely different in the daylight and our return journey totalled just under 2 hours. We returned to our cabin right on 12 oclock for checkout and packed our gear before the journey into Puebla for a night before attacking Izta the following day.
Izta
3 summits picked me up from Puebla the very next day. We made the three hour journey to Izta basecamp stopping along the way for fajitas. The drive in is about an hour on a dirt sandy road, stopping at the Popo National park office for permits.
Arriving at Izta base camp has very impressive views of the Izta range however there’s not a lot there. A shed to use for basic sheltered cooking facilities and a dirt patch for tents is about all you’ll find. If you haven’t acclimatised this is an ideal time to go for a short hike upwards. If like me you have, use this time to rest. We arrived at 4pm ish, has some food, watched the sunset and were in our sleeping bags by 7pm.
Above is Izta Basecamp looking onto the main range. From here you start from the gap in the range on the right (between the knee’s and feet) and traverse along the ridge to the summit on the very far left.
Izta – Alpine Start
We awoke at midnight, stretched, ate, packed and left by 1am for what is known as an alpine start to climb Iztaccihuatl. What I found most interesting is 2 days prior I was struggling for every uphill step at 3400M. Now at 4000 metres I was fine and full of energy. We ascended in the darkness for a few hours.
There are 4 predominant saddles in the ridge to cross before the refuge hut. Every saddle offered up a moment of flatter respite and some extra views of the city lights of Mexico City. The going was mostly compacted dirt uphill with occasional boulders to navigate. It is quite easy.
The wind picked up around 4am as we arrived into the refuge hut at 4,800m. I was bitterly cold and we dived in to relayer and have a bit to eat. 2 stray dogs were also cuddled up shivering inside.
Izta – Scree City
We set off again into the hardest part of the climb. I was also anticipating this so was mentally ready. From the refuge hut for the next 2 kilometres is uphill through extremely soft scree and gravel. One step forward, half a step back. It is mentally very tough so prepare yourself. Once through the scree you are on the hips. Being a ridge line you drop down and come back up quite a lot so it’s not quite over yet.
Izta – The Glacier
At around 5:30am we reached the very windy glacier. The glacier is very quickly receding and is said will be extinct in 2 years time which I found quite sad. It’s only a very short 15 minute traverse, however I would still recommend crampons. Following the glacier is quite a sharp uphill final push through more loose sand to the summit.
Izta – Summit & Smoke
We arrived at the summit at 6:30am to the most amazing sunrise I have ever seen. The sun was rising behind the very distant Orizaba, casting a heavenly orange glow over the world with with morning rays bouncing off the freshly puffed smoke from Popo. It is an incredible sight, making our climb of Iztaccihuatl extremely rewarding.
As we arrived there was another party leaving, giving us the summit to ourselves. Although quite cold and windy, I was mesmerised by the view. Even sitting down for a while to take it in.
Enjoying the summit for around an hour, taking photo’s and almost losing a drone, we started to head down.
Izta – Save some Energy… You’ll need it
Now, a big shock to me. Going down was quite hard. All the downhill sections of the ridge line which I didn’t quite notice, we now had to go back up. The glacier which started with a sharp downhill on the way in, now presented us with a wall of ice to clamber out. Make sure you save some energy as getting home is tough.
One through the glacier and ridge line we started to scramble down the scree which is also very taxing. The hop and ski routine works quite well until you hit a rock or slip off somehow. We rested in the refuge on the way back to rebuild energy.
Following the refuge it’s a pretty manageable downhill hike back to basecamp. We arrive around 12 to make 5.5 hours up, hour at the top and 4.5 hours back down. From the bottom we hopped back in the car to head back to Puebla to prepare for Orizaba!
Pico De Orizaba
3 Summits picked me up from Puebla to and we made our journey to Oyamecalco el Cajón, the highest town in Mexico. The sights of Orizaba were really something else. In the town we had a quick lunch then jumped in 4wd’s to head up the very dusty mountain track. The track takes about an hour.
Arriving at Pico basecamp is quite unique as you have an entire view over Malinche and the valley 2000M below. Views of Pico itself are minimal however you can definitely see the path you will take through the labyrinth to the glacier.
We ate, prepped and went to sleep as soon as possible.
Alpine start on Pico De Orizaba
We were up at 1, ate, packed, stretched and set off to climb Pico de Orizaba by 2am. As we were reasonably fast up Izta so set off a little later. Most groups leave by 1am. The initial approach is very manageable. A steady incline along an old viaduct, into a sharper incline through a rocky field. At a slow but steady pace this goes very quickly in the darkness for about 1km.
Pico de Orizaba – The Labyrinth
There is a short scree section but it is nowhere near as bad as Izta (the scree on Izta is purely miserable). After 2 hours we came to the Labyrinth. A very well-known rocky boulder section. It is called the labyrinth because in the dark it’s extremely easy to get lost. We saw many head torches going the wrong way.
The Labyrinth is quite short and very easy paced. We stopped for some food and to increase our layers and before we knew it, we were approaching the glacier.
Pico de Orizaba – The Glacier
The Glacier is the hardest part of the climb, however, when mentally prepared it’s really a case of one foot in front of the other. It’s quite steep and at first somewhat alarming if you haven’t been in crampons. However, the path is mostly stepped in already so it’s quite easy to follow. We had very dry conditions so I imagine it’s quite different in snow.
One fascinating thing about Orizaba is how remote the peak itself is. You have a complete view to the horizon and see fascinating sights of climbers up close battling a challenging wall against a backdrop of nothing. Paired with the sunrise pyramid shadow effect, this makes for sights to remember for the rest of your life.
After a long and gruelling two hours we came to regret rock. A giant rocky outcrop 100 metres below the summit. It is quite well known that although the summit is close, from regret rock it still takes an hour to summit.
Summiting Pico de Orizaba
The ice receeds about 50m from the summit so the final push is in soft dirt and sand which is challenging but very short. We summited around 7am, after sunrise, to a very cold and windy outlook over the volcanic crater.
The view is nothing short of breathtaking! 360 degree views of the horizon, kilometres above red and yellow cloudy valleys with a brightly shining sun. Yellow and gold light bouncing off the volcanic crater cast heavenly glows over amazed faces of other summiteers. This is truly something special.
Returning from Pico De Orizaba
The way down was very easy. With two of us quite used to crampons we passed many 4-5 person roped groups making slow progress. The switchback traverse on the way up turned into a straight down, crampon digging speedy descent.
We were off the glacier by 9am. The Labryinth was now a very well lit downhill hike with amazing views over the Piedra Grande hut. We arrived back at basecamp by 11am to roiund out 5.5 hours up and 3 hours back down. The path down is a lot easier then Izta.
From basecamp we were back down to the town then straight back to Puebla for a shower and some food.
Summary of my trip to climb the mexican volcano trilogy
In 7 days I climbed over 4000 metres of incline, while also covering over 30 Kilometres of variable terrain. I have a decent level of fitness but I wouldn’t go anywhere near saying I’m an ‘athlete’. This trip is extremely accessible, rewarding and achievable. I hope my Ultimate guide to Climbing the Mexican Volcano Trilogy has been useful for you and I wish you a successful summit!
