Hidden away between green and black jagged peaks lies Pakgil (also know as Thagil), the most remote yet welcoming campsite I’ve ever been to. Only accessible for a few months a year, incredibly secluded and boasting the BEST hiking I’ve ever done, Pakgil is an oasis tucked inside a rugged landscape
Details
Drive – 3 hours from Reykjavik, 1 Hour from Vik.
Camping cost per night – £12, $15 USD, $23 AUD or 2,000 Icelandic Krona.
Cabins cost per night – £150, $183 USD, $287 USD or 25,000 Icelandic Krona.
Vehicle required – I did it in a 2WD, however I’d recommend a 4WD
What to do – hiking, relaxing, stargazing.
Facilities – Hot showers, toilets, waterfalls, cabins, van & tent camping.
Location
Pakgil lies 30 minutes from Vik or 2.5 hours from Reykjavik. Slightly inland on the southern coast of Iceland.
Getting There
Pakgil is only accessible by vehicle. The turnoff to Pakgil is around 10 minutes east of Vik. The road to Pakgil starts near sea level and increases to near 700 metres. This is a dirt road and although can be achieved by a 2WD (like me) I would suggest a 4WD. It is a rugged road travelling through old volcanic highlands and heavily rutted out by rainfall.
What to do in Pakgil
For how remote it is, Pakgil is very well equipped. Hot shower, toilets, camping and cabins are all available. An added bonus, the dining hall for Pakgil is an old Viking cave built into the mountain side.
Pakgil Waterfall
There is a small waterfall hidden behind the cabins. The future plans for pakgil involve using the waterfall to power the campground. For now you can enjoy cooling off or having a brisk morning dip.
Pakgil Camping
Camping in Pakgil is a first come first serve basis. After checking in at the reception cabin you can find yourself a spot very easily. Pitch a tent on the grass or pull up your van with ease.
Pakgil Cabins
Pakgil has 9 modest cabins on offer. All are within close proximity to the facilities and the campgrounds waterfall. Each cabin is equipped with bunks, cooking facilities and a running toilet. To book cabins visit the Pakgil website HERE.
Pakgil Hiking
Pakgil is most notably known for hiking. I knew nothing about this place when I arrived. I also went on the best hike of my entire life here. Please, please, do it for yourself. Make time to complete the Austurafréttur hike.
Austurafréttur Trail – Yellow Trail
Distance – 17km’s
Time – 6 – 8 Hours
Elevation – 700 Metres
You can read a more in-depth review HERE. This is by far the best hike I have ever done in my life.
Aim for an early start, 7 or 8am is about right. Start up the track to the right of the dining cave, following the yellow markers. This hike will take you over the green rolling hills overlooking Pakgil, increasing your elevation to give fascinating sights of the southern plains before taking you into the highlands, resembling something from lord of the rings.
The Halfway mark is the Huldujökull lookout. This precarious mound on the edge of a 400 metre cliff will provide unforgettable view of the Kotlujokull ice flow with multiple water and glacial falls. Amazing!
From here will start to traverse along the Austurafréttur ridge, a 400 metres high cliff face overlooking vast Kotlujokull glacier as far as the eye can see. This ridge follows along for about 3 kilometres which will leave you in awe. A few more kilometres back down and you’re home.
Quick warning, when I went the markers stopped halfway, I continued north until I met the ridge line where after following that I soon found the markers again.
Remundargil Trail – Purple Trail
Distance – 12.5 km’s
Time – 3 – 5 Hours
Elevation – 250 Metres
If you’re pushed for time the Remundargil trail is a bit shorter while still providing an amazing experience of the Icelandic valleys. Starting from where the Austurafréttur trail finishes, you ascend the towering valleys leading to Kotlujokull glacier. After a short detour to see a waterfall you’ll rejoin the main path.
Around the 6 kilometre mark with a sharp ascent you’ll come to a small lookout overlooking the southern end of the Kotlujokull glacier. On the return journey you’ll backtrack along the inbound path before breaking away for a short trip along the glacial plains you drove through to get to Pakgil. A short trip up the road and you’re home!
Maelifell Trail – Red Trail (CLOSED)
Distance – 13.5 km’s
Time – 4 – 5 Hours
Elevation – 500 Metres
The Maelfill Trail is currently closed due to soil erosion. It should be open again within the next 12 months.
My experience
I arrived very late at night on sunset with no knowledge about Pakgil. Little did I know this would be the best camp I’ve ever visited. Setting up the camper van in a secluded corner, I had a quick dip in the creek flowing through the camp ground and set up for some dinner.
I spent a short amount of time unsuccessfully trying to photograph the stars before an early bed.
Attacking the Austurafréttur trail the next morning I experienced a hike that undoubtedly changed my view of what hiking can be. I had never seen that type of landscape in my life and feel extremely privileged to do so.
I was at Pakgil in late September and it just happened to be the last week it was open before winter so it was very quiet and I felt extremely lucky to experience it. It was also quite cold.
On the Austurafréttur Trail hike I lost the path for a while in a dense cover of fog with nothing but 5 metres of visibility and the sounds of cracking glaciers all around me. It was quite an experience. I only stayed one night as I was had limited time for my trip but will never forget being there.
